Reddit:Electronics

the one on the left is the switched-mode power supply its much smaller and lighter, this one can output twice as much current as the linear power supply on the right

Made by a high school robotics team in MN

Good news for Keithley 2000 / 2015 / 2016 / 2010 DMM owners with dim displays.
This is a drop-in LED display conversion kit that replaces the original dim VFD.

So this is my power supply i have built. A dual rail ±37V 1-1.5A Linear power supply using lm317 and lm337 so far untill it have built a series pass voltage and current regulator for it just to get it started. Also going to add 0.33 ohm resistor between the 15000uF and 10000uF capacitors. My noise levels are low i think as can be seen in picture 1. I have a soft starter, emi filter on the AC side before transformer, filterd rectifier using small rc filters on each diode, 20d20 ntc, 15000uF, 10000uF. 5630uF +, capacitance multiplier, emi dc filter, another dc filter. Regulator, out.

I always wanted to create my very own weather station which is capable of measuring as much things as possible. For a start decided to create a set of sensors for temperature, pressure, humidity, and light. There are plenty of options for these, but I chose digital sensors with I2C interface. It leaves analog part to sensor vendors and allows to use them through a common interface both from hardware and software levels. Check out linked project page. It contains schematic, PCB design, simple test code for RPi Zero 2 W, and a tool to visualize measurements. The set requires 1.8-3.3V (haven’t tested 1.8V yet), I2C connection, and provides a couple interrupt lines. I have a bunch of MCUs so now planning to create more code examples - for RPi Pico, ESP, STM.

thought it looked coo

This is more of a vent I guess. So maybe it’s because my workbench is in such disarray; my home office is trashed so I started doing work in the downstairs dining room and fucked that place up, too. Wreaking havoc around the house and the other half isn’t having it lol

I’m trying to work on this board and wasn’t thinking about serviceability. Only after everything was done, I was like, “oh shit this thing better work”. Got everything wired up and proper, did point to point verification with a multimeter and resolved shorts on the 5v bus and come to find out, when powered on, the ESP32 is not working as expected. Everything is point to point soldered. So I need to rebuild this stupid thing from scratch, but the proper way using wire wrap techniques and socketing the ESP32 and logic level converter boards.

Just FYI, this board I’m trying to build is meant to drive a HUB75 RGB panel with text/graphics from a Raspberry Pi’s UART interface. Prototype wise, it’s working as you can see in the background, now I’m trying to put everything on this perfboard as it is mean to be displayed in the open. The ESP32 is also driving 8 x MAX7219 8x8 LED matrix. This is an effort to build a thing centered around AI/LLM. My idea/concept got everyone in the AI community in an uproar, so I’m making an art piece out of it

Just finished installing the new desk for electronics. I used to both study and do my electronics on the white desk but it would take too long to move all of my electronics every time that I wanted to study and reversed. So I just got this cheap ikea desk for electronics and the white desk is for studying strictly. I still have many ideas to improve it, starting with a rotating chair for convenience and a whiteboard on the wall which is already waiting for me to mount it. If you have any tips or criticisms feel free to share

Hey everyone! Hope the UK timezone rule for the WBW still holds true haha.

Almost exactly three years back I posted my beginner hobbyist bench on the sub and got a ton of kind and helpful feedback from y'all.

This new album is a present-day update three years later, after many changes and acquisitions during and for my projects. Overall I learned a ton about what I actually use the most and tried to make it all zero nuisance to get to. If it takes too many steps to get out or get ready it's no good.

Some of your predictions back then also came true!

• I did lob a 3D printer onto that side table and got into CAD and printing in a major way, which I now use in a lot of projects for case parts, mechanical bits, etc. I wound up building a few robots out of a mix of alu extrusion beams and 3D-printed parts. This is why you see a lot more tools now dedicated to mechanics - measuring, fastening, glueing, cutting, deburring, etc. - to complement the electronics toolset.

• I ended up getting a low-end benchtop meter after I got tired of getting out and throwing around my $20 handheld. Much happier with a permanent fixture.

• Dremel (well, Proxxon) on a steel cable retractor, permanently plugged in. Actually best idea ever! My circumstances don't really allow for a ton of dust and dirt creation, but for a quick cut or a grind/polish this is so convenient to grab down, and managable.

• I got my hands on two airline galley trolleys with pull-out tables. In my limited space this is perfect for additional on-demand benchtop space, and it's where I much of my growing electronics stock and some simple hardware.

• Shoutout to that Omnifixo. The hype for once is true. I've never been happier soldering and use it daily.

It's of course hardly ever this presentable. I just had some time off work and did a big tidying pass that reminded me of the older beauty shots.

My first time designing a microcontroller board. I wanted to look into getting it assembled by overseas manufacturers but they wanted to charge me over $100 and take over a month to assemble and I said nah I’ll do it myself.

I got a convection toaster oven off of facebook marketplace for like $10 and drilled a small hole in the back for a thermocouple which is connected to an ESP32 dev board.

I didn’t create a controller which is something I might do eventually but for the time being I had to manually adjust the oven temperature to try and match the reflow curve as best as I could.

You can see in the third picture the red line is the expected reflow curve from the solder paste datasheet and the blue line was the real time temperature readings. I was using that graph in real time to make my adjustments.

Placing all the components took me about an hour and I had practiced following the reflow curve twice lol but the end result was a really nice looking PCB!

Not only that, but my PC was able to detect the board as a USB DFU device when I pressed the boot switch while plugging the cable into the board!

All in all very happy with how this turned out and I think I did pretty well for my first time doing something like this!

TL;DR Reflowed a board for the first time using a convection toaster oven that I manually controlled and everything worked out :)